"The Jewel of Kyajo Valley"
Kyazo Ri (Kyajo Ri) is a magnificent peak situated in the heart of the Khumbu region between the Gokyo Valley and the Thame Valley.
It was officially opened for climbing by the Nepalese government in 2002 and features pure alpine climbing conditions.
Route, acclimatisation and permit notes for Kyazo Ri from the Nepal Side side, plus practical safety advice.
Located on the ridge dividing the Kyajo Glacier and the Machhermo Valley.
Official height is 6,186 m (20,295 ft).
Climbing Grade: Graded Alpine TD (Très Difficile), making it significantly more technical than Island Peak or Mera Peak.
Approached from Mende/Thame, ascending through the isolated Kyajo Valley.
The standard season on Kyazo Ri is Spring & Autumn (Mar–May / Sep–Nov). High Technical Difficulty: Requires advanced rope work and previous alpine climbing experience.
Approaches to Kyazo Ri begin from Nepal Side in Solukhumbu District, where the main objective is the Southwest Ridge. Confirm current permit, insurance, and national park requirements before departure.
Plan for road travel to the Nepal Side trailhead, then several days of walking before you reach the foot of Kyazo Ri. Gain height gradually, take a rest day before moving to high camp, and keep a spare weather day in reserve during Spring & Autumn.
Summit day on a 6,186 m objective is long, so start early and set a clear turn-around time. If the Southwest Ridge is crowded or the snow is unstable, waiting a day is almost always better than pushing on.
Kyazo Ri "The Jewel of Kyajo Valley" stands at 6,186 m in Solukhumbu District, Khumbu Region. The figures below summarise the mountain for trip planning.