Kusum Kangru: Geography and Name
Elevation stands at 6,367 m (20,889 ft).
Separates the Dudh Koshi Valley from the Hinku Valley.
Name Meaning: In Sherpa, Kusum Kangru translates to 'Three Snow-White Gods'.
Elevation
6,367 m
20,889 ft
Location
Solukhumbu District
Khumbu Region
Best Season
Spring & Autumn
Mar–May / Sep–Nov
Standard Route
South East Ridge
Nepal Side
The Gateway Guardian of Khumbu
Kusum Kangru is a formidable mountain that dominates the southern entrance to the Khumbu region near Lukla.
It is considered one of the most difficult 'trekking peaks' in Nepal due to its technical complexity and steepness.
Key Highlights
- Visible immediately upon flying into Lukla Airport.
- Features three main summits forming a complex triple peak.
- Demands high-level technical alpine climbing skills.
Quick Facts
First Ascent
1979 (Japanese Team)
Parent Range
Mahalangur Himal, Himalayas
Coordinates
27.6611° N, 86.7861° E
Beyond the Basics
Kusum Kangru: Climbing & Trekking Guide
Route, acclimatisation and permit notes for Kusum Kangru from the Nepal Side side, plus practical safety advice.
Kusum Kangru: Climbing Routes
Routes exist from the South East Ridge and North Face; all require severe technical commitment.
- South East Ridge Route: Sustained ice climbing, steep snow flutings, and sharp crests.
Kusum Kangru: Permits, Season and Safety
The standard season on Kusum Kangru is Spring & Autumn (Mar–May / Sep–Nov). Not a Standard Trekking Peak: Despite NMA classification, this peak is a serious mountaineering undertaking.
Approaches to Kusum Kangru begin from Nepal Side in Solukhumbu District, where the main objective is the South East Ridge. Confirm current permit, insurance, and national park requirements before departure.
- Permits required: NMA Peak Permit.
- Best months: Autumn (Oct-Nov) and Spring (Apr-May).
- Elevation: 6,367 m (20,889 ft).
Kusum Kangru: Approach and Acclimatisation
Plan for road travel to the Nepal Side trailhead, then several days of walking before you reach the foot of Kusum Kangru. Gain height gradually, take a rest day before moving to high camp, and keep a spare weather day in reserve during Spring & Autumn.
Summit day on a 6,367 m objective is long, so start early and set a clear turn-around time. If the South East Ridge is crowded or the snow is unstable, waiting a day is almost always better than pushing on.
Kusum Kangru: Facts and Figures
Kusum Kangru "The Triple Snow Peaks" stands at 6,367 m in Solukhumbu District, Khumbu Region. The figures below summarise the mountain for trip planning.
- First Ascent: 1979 (Japanese Team)
- Parent Range: Mahalangur Himal, Himalayas
- Coordinates: 27.6611° N, 86.7861° E