"The Island in a Sea of Ice"
Imja Tse (Island Peak) was named by Eric Shipton's party in 1953 because it resembles an island in a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche.
It stands at 6,189 m in the Imja Valley and is the most popular first 6,000m mountaineering objective in Nepal.
Route, acclimatisation and permit notes for Imja Tse (Island Peak) from the Nepal Side side, plus practical safety advice.
Extends like an island from the ridge dividing the Lhotse and Imja glaciers.
Official height is 6,189 m (20,305 ft).
1953 Expedition: First climbed in 1953 by members of the British Everest expedition (including Tenzing Norgay) as part of training.
Climbed from Island Peak Base Camp at Pareshaya Gyab (5,100 m) or High Camp (5,600 m).
The standard season on Imja Tse (Island Peak) is Spring & Autumn (Mar–May / Sep–Nov). Headwall Rush: Bottlenecks occur on the fixed ropes during peak spring and autumn seasons; start early.
Approaches to Imja Tse (Island Peak) begin from Nepal Side in Solukhumbu District, where the main objective is the South East Ridge. Confirm current permit, insurance, and national park requirements before departure.
Plan for road travel to the Nepal Side trailhead, then several days of walking before you reach the foot of Imja Tse (Island Peak). Gain height gradually, take a rest day before moving to high camp, and keep a spare weather day in reserve during Spring & Autumn.
Summit day on a 6,189 m objective is long, so start early and set a clear turn-around time. If the South East Ridge is crowded or the snow is unstable, waiting a day is almost always better than pushing on.
Imja Tse (Island Peak) "The Island in a Sea of Ice" stands at 6,189 m in Solukhumbu District, Imja Valley. The figures below summarise the mountain for trip planning.